Rogano Rocks

Cafe Rogano – Exchange Place, Glasgow

Glutton is back in the West this week with a birthday celebration at Cafe Rogano just off Royal Exchange Square in the city centre.  I picked Cafe Rogano because it’s a good bit cheaper than the main restaurant upstairs but it still has a great sense of style and a really decent menu.

It was a Sunday afternoon and at 1.30pm we were the first table to arrive, I have to confess this is the first time I have ventured downstairs and I was pleasantly surprised.  The sumptuous art deco theme of the main dining room is continued and although it proclaims to be Glasgow’s “oldest restaurant” it was nice and fresh without looking too battered.

On being seated I was informed that the 5pm deal comprised of any starter and main course for £12 (with the exception of oysters & steak) – this was a great treat as I hadn’t even booked through 5pm!  Ssshhh......  Indeed it seemed that they were generously pointing this out to all the tables that arrived which was good advertising at least.

The menu leans towards seafood as you would expect in the Rogano although not too heavily and there is plenty of choice.   Disappointingly the mackerel starter that three out of four diners were ordering was not available, so instead I opted for the smoked salmon.  A generous portion of excellent smoked salmon arrived but unfortunately with little else on the plate, don’t get me wrong it was delicious but five tiny capers and a lemon quarter made for a sad accompaniment.  Had it been served with a side salad, cucumber pickle or even some bread it would have been exceptional.

Other starters on the table included goats cheese bonbons with beetroot, crispy on the outside, creamy and goaty in the middle although the beetroot lacked a bit of sourness, chicken liver parfait which was well executed but needed a bit more seasoning and the punchy crab cocktail was vibrant, spiked with zesty lime and hot ginger.  

The main course was where the cooking really started to shine, tediously three of us ordered the duck although a finer dish I couldn’t imagine.  A confit leg brushed with spicy harissa paste was melt in the mouth tender, it was served with a stunning apricot sauce which tasted like it had been made using ground almonds, in a similar fashion to the albondigas (meatballs) in Andalucía.  It was finished with a drizzle of fresh mint oil and a lovely fruity cous-cous, devoured and enjoyed by all.  The final main course was a supreme of chicken with haggis croquettes, a good dish although not as complex as the duck.  A sneakily ordered portion of fries were also fantastic, straight out the fryer and salted to perfection.

Dessert was also ordered for a change and I’m so glad I did, this restaurant produced the best crème brûlée I have eaten in ages.  The texture was spot on, light but creamy and firm and full of heady vanilla.  The sugar top was evenly caramelised and deliciously crunchy.  I’m almost scared to go back and order it again in case I am disappointed!

Cafe Rogano was a delight that afternoon, a satisfying blend of luxury, comfort and gastronomy all for a particularly reasonable price, I would urge a visit.

East is East - Glutton in Edinburgh part 2

Petit Paris - Grassmarket, Edinburgh

Hangover averted our second day in Edinburgh took us to Petit Paris, a French restaurant down in the lovely Grassmarket.   It could not have been more different in style from our meal at Castle Terrace but it was equally as good.  This restaurant is small but perfectly formed in a traditional French bistro style where French waiters, checked table cloths and art nouveaux posters complete the scene. 

Pitchers of house red and white wine were served in tumblers the same as they do in a lot of Parisian bistros and my favourite way in this kind of restaurant.  Again, both an a la carte and lunch menu were offered but the lure of a salmon rillettes starter on the lunch menu swayed my decision and I’m glad it did.  The salmon had a slightly smoked flavour and was bound in a light dressing spiked with dill, it was served with toasted croûtes and it tasted utterly sublime, it’s a dish I’ll be trying to recreate at home.

For my second course I ordered the steak.   A word of warning - I asked for the steak to be done medium as I know that French restaurants prefer to undercook their steaks which indeed was the case here, it came rare.   Ask for anything below medium and you run the risk of it still mooing.... 

Aside from being slightly less done than I would prefer the steak was fantastic, seared until crusted it was well seasoned and tender.  The accompanying peppercorn sauce and sautéed potatoes were equally as good and a separately ordered, well dressed side salad ticked the green box.

My husband’s dish of pork fillet with a blue cheese sauce served with mash was also an authentic nod to bistro cuisine and although slightly cold he devoured the lot and proclaimed it delicious.

The lunch menu is a steal at £11.90 for two courses and coffee (supplement for steak) and the pitchers of wine also offer up decent value our bill for two was under £50.   I think this is wonderful restaurant, on a sunny Sunday it was packed to the brim inside and out and it is bursting with French charm and charisma.  Although a very different experience from our lunch the day before I would be as eager to recommend a trip to this adorable bistro to anyone interested in a low fuss, rustic dining experience.

East is East - Glutton in Edinburgh part 1

Castle Terrace – Castle Terrace, Edinburgh

A recent jaunt to Edinburgh was a fabulous opportunity to sample some of the capital’s brilliant cuisine.   An overnight stay in the beautiful Scotsman Hotel gave us a prime location from which to start our glutton’s tour!

My husband treated us to lunch at Castle Terrace restaurant down near the castle (funnily enough) and what a way to kick off a great weekend.  The restaurant is the epitome of modern elegance, all dark wood and glamorous wallpaper with smart, efficient staff.  We were greeted and seated near the back of the restaurant in a nice little alcove area slightly removed from the hustle of the busy main room. 

The waiter provided the wine list, lunch menu, tasting menu and a la carte menu giving us maximum choice, however we opted for the lunch menu, which at £20 for three courses is great value in these credit crunching times.   Although not a big selection on the lunch menu we had the choice of three dishes for each course all of which were focused around seasonality.

With a bottle of Prosecco poured and food ordered the waiter arrived with a selection of savouries on a board.  Thin breadsticks, little scones and crunchy bits of spinach and squid ink pasta were interesting and a bit hit and miss.  The breadsticks and pasta were tasty but the anchovy and tomato scones were reminiscent of the taste of my old home economics efforts, a wee bit floury and bland.  On the contrary, next to arrive was an amouse bouche of salmon mouse with cucumber cappuccino, a delicious little cup with layers of cucumber and chive jelly, smoked salmon mousse, tiny fried croutons all topped with a light, creamy cucumber foam.  It was outstanding and I could have eaten about ten of them!

Taste buds a tingling the first course arrived, for me a subtle, seasonal dish of asparagus with a raw spring vegetable salad accompanied by a black olive tapenade.   The asparagus had been trimmed and lightly cooked and the salad was made up of broad beans, peas, mushrooms, carrots and radish all prepared and dressed with the lightest of touch.  The tapenade was good although I did feel it slightly overpowered the other delicate flavours on the plate but I loved the simplicity and style of the dish.  My husband started with the pea soup, served with gnocchi, poached egg and tiny bacon bits and it was stunning.  Every texture and flavour from the smooth soup, runny egg yolk, crispy bacon and light dumplings made the dish sing.  If we go back and it’s still on the menu it is a must order starter.

Unusually, both of us ordered the same main course of braised pig cheeks with seasonal vegetables.   An incredibly tender braised pig cheek was garnished with tiny vegetables, a crispy fried bonbon of more cheek, rich jus and a blanquette sauce.  Again every morsel on the plate had been beautifully executed by the chefs.  I probably would have enjoyed the dish with the jus only but that is more a personal taste and I think it could have made the dish too wintery for the time of year.

A short break was requested before the desserts were ordered, a classic crème brulee was marred by being over done with the blow torch and unfortunately had started to slightly curdle.  The other dessert was a stunning apple en croute, strudel like and served with cinnamon ice cream and crisped apple slice it ended the meal on a high.

Although not perfect I have been highly critical of this restaurant as it is fine dining and the recipient of a “Rising Star” from Michelin.  The service was impeccable and the food was prepared with such care and attention that I really think it is worth a visit, especially with such a great value lunch menu on offer.  I can’t wait for another excuse to go back!

Footnote.....

Following on from our glutton’s tour of Edinburgh I am wisely omitting our evening activities from this blog, let’s just say that after such a wonderful meal in Castle Terrace several more drinks were consumed throughout the day and we ended up with a not exactly gastronomic dinner of nachos, buffalo wings and fajitas in the Filling Station – yummy and drunken!

Wong-derful

Ho Wong - York Street, Glasgow

Family arriving this week spells the beginning of another indulgent period which kicked off with a visit to the Ho Wong.  A Glasgow institution this restaurant has been open for almost 30 years and it seems to still be as popular now as ever.  It’s what I would describe as a traditional Chinese restaurant, with low lighting, starched white tablecloths and dark banquette seating but it has a lovely low key buzz which is just right for a relaxing meal.

Having been sat down and given the menu the great ordering debate started, the only issue with this menu is that it is full of delicious sounding Chinese treats and it takes some time to decide on which ones to go for.  Restraint must be shown as this place is not cheap, especially if you go for some of the divine seafood options.

Starters began with steamed scallops in their half shell served with black bean sauce, fat and juicy they were a testament to fine Scottish shellfish as well as the chef’s delicate touch.   At £4.50 a scallop there was some tussling over each delicious morsel but they were well worth it.  Next up was a more standard dish of salt and pepper spare ribs, a generous portion of salty, tender ribs with a great chilli kick.  Finally, the dish that really stood out amongst the starters was deep fried soft shell crab, done with salt and chilli they were cooked to perfection, sweet and delicious and definitely worth the £8.30 price tag.

Main courses were again shared and more chopstick wrestling ensued…..  Lamb in yellow bean sauce was a little on the sweet side for what is normally quite a savoury dish, served with cashew nuts it was tasty but not outstanding.  Aromatic lamb on the other hand was exceptional, served in the same manner as aromatic or Peking duck the lamb makes a delectable alternative.  Two seafood dishes of garlic langoustine and steamed halibut were also fantastic.  The classic method of steaming the halibut with ginger, spring onion and a little soy was all this beautiful fish needed and the langoustine were unexpectedly hard fried but very good nevertheless.  Accompaniments of fried rice and soft noodles were competently done, although not included with the main courses so be wary when ordering.

Service was very friendly and attentive however we did feel that our food took quite a long time to come out of the kitchen but with such high standards of cooking all was quickly forgiven.  The bill with wine for four of us was a hefty £180 however as I mentioned we had ordered some of the more expensive of dishes.  Ho Wong is a special occasion kind of place where you can indulge guilt free and revel in the delights of superior Chinese cuisine.