Rogano Rocks

Cafe Rogano – Exchange Place, Glasgow

Glutton is back in the West this week with a birthday celebration at Cafe Rogano just off Royal Exchange Square in the city centre.  I picked Cafe Rogano because it’s a good bit cheaper than the main restaurant upstairs but it still has a great sense of style and a really decent menu.

It was a Sunday afternoon and at 1.30pm we were the first table to arrive, I have to confess this is the first time I have ventured downstairs and I was pleasantly surprised.  The sumptuous art deco theme of the main dining room is continued and although it proclaims to be Glasgow’s “oldest restaurant” it was nice and fresh without looking too battered.

On being seated I was informed that the 5pm deal comprised of any starter and main course for £12 (with the exception of oysters & steak) – this was a great treat as I hadn’t even booked through 5pm!  Ssshhh......  Indeed it seemed that they were generously pointing this out to all the tables that arrived which was good advertising at least.

The menu leans towards seafood as you would expect in the Rogano although not too heavily and there is plenty of choice.   Disappointingly the mackerel starter that three out of four diners were ordering was not available, so instead I opted for the smoked salmon.  A generous portion of excellent smoked salmon arrived but unfortunately with little else on the plate, don’t get me wrong it was delicious but five tiny capers and a lemon quarter made for a sad accompaniment.  Had it been served with a side salad, cucumber pickle or even some bread it would have been exceptional.

Other starters on the table included goats cheese bonbons with beetroot, crispy on the outside, creamy and goaty in the middle although the beetroot lacked a bit of sourness, chicken liver parfait which was well executed but needed a bit more seasoning and the punchy crab cocktail was vibrant, spiked with zesty lime and hot ginger.  

The main course was where the cooking really started to shine, tediously three of us ordered the duck although a finer dish I couldn’t imagine.  A confit leg brushed with spicy harissa paste was melt in the mouth tender, it was served with a stunning apricot sauce which tasted like it had been made using ground almonds, in a similar fashion to the albondigas (meatballs) in Andalucía.  It was finished with a drizzle of fresh mint oil and a lovely fruity cous-cous, devoured and enjoyed by all.  The final main course was a supreme of chicken with haggis croquettes, a good dish although not as complex as the duck.  A sneakily ordered portion of fries were also fantastic, straight out the fryer and salted to perfection.

Dessert was also ordered for a change and I’m so glad I did, this restaurant produced the best crème brûlée I have eaten in ages.  The texture was spot on, light but creamy and firm and full of heady vanilla.  The sugar top was evenly caramelised and deliciously crunchy.  I’m almost scared to go back and order it again in case I am disappointed!

Cafe Rogano was a delight that afternoon, a satisfying blend of luxury, comfort and gastronomy all for a particularly reasonable price, I would urge a visit.